Visiting Albania

WANT TO VISIT ALBANIA? DOWNLOAD THESE TIPS TO HELP GET YOU STARTED!

Ever wonder what it would be like to visit a post-communist country?

Are you planning a trip to Albania? Want some recommendations for local cuisine, sites to see, things to do, and places to stay? Do you have questions about the culture here? Want to learn some Albanian? Read on, good friend...

COST - Airfare, Food, Accommodations, Transportation

CURRENCY CONVERSION: 100 Albanian Lekë (notated as "ALL") = $.81(USD) (roughly)

Airfare: Expect to pay around $600 each way, per person to get here from the US. The main airport (TIA - Tirana) is not a major hub in Europe yet, so expect a layover in Munich, Vienna, or Rome. The jetlag can be a bit rough, so it may take a few days to adjust.

Food: Food is cheap compared to prices in the US.
Meals in nice restaurants in Tirana are the most expensive and average 1500-2000 lek ($12.50- 16) per person (includes appetizer, main course, drinks & wine).
Meals in towns are more moderate. A full meal will average 250 - 1000 lek ($2 - 8)
You can always get very cheap food pretty in any town - Sufllaqe, pasta (called 'Makarona'), byrek, pilaf, brioche. 40 - 150 lek (35 cents - $1.20)
Food in the markets are also cheap - plenty of veggies and fruit at great prices!

Some sample prices:
Byrek: 50 lek (41 cents)
Bottle of water: 50 lek
Coffee (espresso): 50 - 70 lek
Soda: 100 lek
Beer: 100 - 150 lek
Raki (shot): 50 lek
Pizza (individual size): 400 - 600 lek
Pasta - 150 lek
Ice Cream: 40-80 lek
Pilaf and Qofte (Rice and Meatballs): 200 lek
Salad: 150 - 250 lek
Chicken Breast, Veggies, and Rice - 600 - 1000 lek

ACCOMMODATIONS
You can stay at a nice hotel in Tirana for $60 and up. A bed at a hostel may be a more-affordable choice for those on a budget (1000 lek - 2500 lek). Hotels in tourist areas can be around 2000 - 4000 lek per night, during non-peak season. Again, if you travel to non-tourist areas outside of Tirana, you can usually find nice private accommodations for 2000 - 4000 lek/night. Also, be sure to check out "Couchsurfers" or other similar websites for cheap/free places to crash.

TRANSPORTATION
You can take a bus, taxi, or minibus ("Furgon") to get around from town to town.
Prices vary significantly based on distance from major areas.
Tirana to Elbasan by bus costs 150 lek.  By furgon it's 200 lek. By taxi... well, name your price (probably around 1500 lek or more...)
Once it gets dark, buses and furgons typically stop running. Plan to take a taxi if you don't find public transport.
Always check the price BEFORE you get in a vehicle. Also, if you forget to do that, it helps to ask someone on the bus what price they pay - you can feel confident that this is the correct price.

If you are just in Tirana, you can take the city bus (40 lek per ride) to get around within the city. Caution: Watch you wallet/purse while taking the bus during busy hours.

Another tip: If you are really in a bind, you can ask a willing local to take you somewhere. Just ask, name a price, and see if they say yes. You might be surprised at the hospitality! But a word of caution - it is safer not to travel alone. Also, make sure your potential "driver" has not just had his evening (or morning) Raki (local alcoholic drink). Don't judge, just adjust. :-)

PLACES TO VISIT

1. Ksamil & Saranda - For beautiful beaches, head down south for the so-called "new Riviera."
2. Valbonna and Thethi - For some of the best hiking and camping that you will ever find, head to the far north. The views are supposedly quite spectacular.
3. Korcë - Host of the annual Beer Festival, this popular city draws quite a crowd every year. Head to nearby village Dardhë during the winter months for a nice snowy winter wonderland. :-)
4. Berat - The perfect city to explore - with an old town area, castle, and art galleries, it makes for an excellent excursion.
5. Shkodër - Right near the border with Montenegro, this progressive city has lots to see - evening promenade, a Venetian Mask shop, bike rides (Think Critical Mass), a Castle, a Lake, and lots of charm.
6. Tirana - Art galleries, Opera, restaurants, clubs, hotels, buses to every corner of Albania, you'll be sure to get your city fix in the capital. Be sure to visit the castle of Kruja, not too far north of the city. Very impressive with a bazaar and large art gallery.
7. Gjirokastër - Boasts an impressive Castle that overlooks the new city. The streets of the old town are quite a site to see.
8. Shebenik/Jablanicë National Park - Right near my town of Librazhd lies a huge national park. Try to find the elusive Balkan Linx or simply hike and camp 'til your heart's content.
9. Divjakë wetlands - for birdwatching along the coast.
10. Pogradec - With nearby Lake Ohrid, this summer destination draws quite a crowd. Enjoy and relax along the shore and gaze across the water, maybe you'll even see Macedonia. :-) Tushemishtë park is lovely and very close to the city.

Other sites:

Syri Kalter "The Blue Eye" water source, a gorgeous place to stay cool during the summer months.

HISTORICAL SITES OF INTEREST
1. Kamenicë - Not far from Korce lies an ancient burial site. Well curated, it is worth braving the bumpy road to get there.

2. Butrint - Explore the ancient ruins of the far south at this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Close to Ksamil (see above)

3. Himarë - Want to practice your Greek? Head to this rather isolated region in the Vlore district. The area boasts beaches, castles (Porto Palermo), great food and a special dialect of Greek only spoken in this area (Himariote). While heading there, you will get to see the beautiful Bregdeti coast. Be sure to stop at Llogara for a pilaf.

FOOD & DRINK SUGGESTIONS

Byrek "Boo-RECK" - It's a phyllo dough stuffed with Spinach, Cheese, Onion, or meat. Like Spanakopita, the greek dish. I love the spinach one! Usually found in small shops or bakeries. Also, incredibly cheap.

Sufllaqe "Soo - flatch" - A pita with meat, veggies, and yogurt-like sauce. Easy to find. Very cheap. It's considered "fast food" here. Like a greek Gyro/Suvllaki.

Qofte and Pilaf "Chof- teh and pee-lahf" - Local sausage and rice. Popular dish

Salce Kosi and Patate te skuqura - "Sahlz-koh-si and "pa-tah-teh teh skoo-choo-rah" - It's like a combination of sour cream and yogurt "tsaziki" sauce, and french fries. Yummy!

Also recommended - Tave Kosi, Fergese, Fasule, and Speca me Gjize.

If you really want to impress - Be sure to tell the chef at the restaurant this phrase after a meal you enjoy: Ju lumshim duart "Yoo loom-shin doo-art" It means 'your hands be blessed.' It is a very Albanian saying and is considered a compliment to the chef. :-)

To drink:

Bitter "Bee-ter" - A tart, yet refreshing drink. (non-alcoholic)
Kafe "ka-feh" - Coffee here comes in the form of espresso shots. There is no "filtered coffee" option in most places.

Raki "Rah - kee" - If you drink alcohol, this is the local drink - made from grapes - typically made locally. When you 'cheers,' be sure to say "Gezuar" "Geh-zoo-ahr!"

Lemon or Orange Soda - A popular drink, tasty.

Caj mali "Chai mal-i" - Mountain Tea. A strong hot tea, grown locally.

Advice Regarding Drinking Water

I recommend purchasing bottles of water as you go. There are plenty of shops that sell cheap water. The water here is not always good from the tap (unless you are close to a water source - like in Librazhd or Korce). If you order water from the restaurants, be sure to get it in a bottle. Also, watch out for ice, as it is usually made with the tap water.

LOCAL TRADITIONS

Xhiro - An Albanian Tradition
The Xhiro "Gjee-row" is a promenade that usually happens in the late evening in the center of town. Basically strolling up and down the street to say hi to friends and have a coffee.

Circle Dancing

If you are at a place that plays music (a restaurant) I'd highly suggest that you ask the waiter about circle dancing. Ask them to show you a dance. It is quite popular here, and most people won't hesitate to dance given the chance. They will most likely already have the music ready to go! This type of dance is called "Valle Popullore" "Vall-eh poh-poo-lore-eh" (Traditional dance).

LANGUAGE

Here are some basic Albanian phrases and words:

Hello - Përshëndetje "Per-shun-det-yeh"

Good Morning - Mirëmengjes "Meer-men-gjess"

How are you? - Si jeni? "See yeh-ni?"

Good - Mirë "Meer" (very useful word, is appropriate response to pretty much anything...)

Goodbye - Mirupafshim "Meer-oo-paf-shim"

Good night - Natën e mirë "Nah-ten eh meer"

Yes - Po "poh"

No - Jo "Yoh"

I don't understand - Nuk kuptoj "Nook koop-toy"

Thank you! - Faleminderit "Fah-leh-meen-deh-rit"

I am American - Une jam Amerikan "Oon yahm Ah-meh-ri-kahn"

I am (insert name) - Une jam ____ "Oon yahm ___"

We are married - Jemi martuar "Yeh-mi mar-too-ahr"

Where is ____? - Ku është ___? "Koo ursht ____?

Notes on Language

• The ë at the end of a word is usually silent.
• If someone says yes/po to you but seems to be shaking their head sideways (like no), don't get confused. In Albania is it normal to shake your head to say 'yes.' (opposite of America)
• Most people will be more than happy to speak English with you. They love to practice, so don't worry about that.
• Bear in mind that practically nobody will expect an American or other foreigner to know any Albanian, so it is considered quite extraordinary to speak anything in the local language here. It is also seen (from what I gather) to be a sign of respect to even try to speak the language. This language is distinctively different than other nearby languages and shares little in common with any other language group, including Greek, Slavic Languages, and Turkish. Make no mistake, learning this language can be quite a challenge.

HAVE QUESTIONS? PLANNING A TRIP? CONTACT ME!

I may not be an expert on Albania (read "I am certainly not an expert" lol) but I am always happy to help share what I know about this wondrous country, and/or refer your inquiries to others who may be more able to help (we're like one big family out here!)

Just comment below, and I will try my best to answer any questions you might have! If you are interested in visiting, and would like more in-depth visitor info, feel free to email me at JonBreen1@gmail.com

Me and my parents atop the giant castle in Berat, Albania